BY JAY AQUINO

JULY 5, 2026

At Songzio, the first argument is rarely color or styling. It is a shape. For Spring/Summer 2027, Jay Song built IMPAVIDE around bodies that looked lengthened, wrapped, and fortified, as if each model had stepped out of a previous century and into a city that no longer promised safety. Shown at Palais de Tokyo on 24 June 2026, the collection proposed courage as a physical condition, with panels guarding the torso, sleeves swelling from the shoulder, trousers breaking into skirts, and tailoring pushed until it became almost sculptural. 

The opening white passage set the tone with cocooned shirting, apron-like panels, and wide trousers that turned cotton into a kind of personal shelter. It was monastic without being precious, soft without losing its spine. From there, Song moved between black leather, ivory cotton, ink-blue velvet, and flashes of berry, citron, and sage, building a wardrobe for someone travelling through time with few possessions and a great deal of memory. The idea could have tipped into fantasy, but the strongest looks stayed close to the body’s needs for movement, coverage, exposure, and speed.

The collection was most persuasive in its construction, with jackets twisted and rotated so the familiar rules of tailoring no longer sat straight. Deep slit necklines exposed the chest, making the clothes more human and allowing vulnerability to sit beside armor. Cascading panels and asymmetrically draped skirts pulled the eye downward, while cropped jackets kept the upper body tense and alert. In several looks, leather trousers rose high around the waist like a protective shell before opening into volume below, proving that defense does not have to mean immobility.

Songzio’s Korean references were clearest when the clothes suggested the ghost of hanbok structure rather than literal quotation. Removable collar details, wrapped fronts, and generous lower shapes gave the collection its historical charge, while metallic surfaces, semi-sheer vinyl, crushed leather, and glossy black blousons kept it pointed toward tomorrow. Heritage appeared as something physically worked through the garment, shifted at the collar, tightened across the body, and released into volume below. 

Black and ivory formed the collection’s emotional foundation, while the painterly interventions mattered. A red jacket became a controlled flare of heat, metallic green recalled oxidized armor, mustard sliced through navy, and sage softened a cropped tailored set. 

There were moments when the layering risked overstatement, particularly where draped panels, exposed legs, and heavy footwear competed for attention. IMPAVIDE worked because it understood that modern masculinity, and increasingly modern dressing in general, is no longer satisfied with the old binary of hardness and softness. Songzio offered clothes for people who are not fearless but who understand the discipline of moving anyway, returning under pressure with their armor intact.

Discover Songzio Spring/Summer 2027 collection here.