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Who Decides War Spring/Summer 2026 Is Messy, Beautiful, And Perfectly Held Together

They lean into the language of texture and fracture, delivering a collection rich with competing motifs, deconstructed finishes, and raw emotional energy.

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BY JAY AQUINO

SEPTEMBER 27, 2025


In a fashion landscape that often rewards minimalism and formulaic design, Who Decides War’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection arrives like a well-aimed grenade—loud, layered, a little unruly, but undeniably beautiful. The label continues its exploration of craftsmanship, storytelling, and distortion; they lean into the language of texture and fracture, delivering a collection rich with competing motifs, deconstructed finishes, and raw emotional energy. And for all its visual noise, the collection doesn’t feel disjointed; instead, it lands as a tightly knit vision—structured in its messiness, cohesive in its complexity.


Tailoring plays a huge part in their collection, its shapes are unstable in the best way. A crisp double-breasted suit opens the thread, then the rhythm changes on purpose to wrap blazers with pleated hems and a navy pinstriped patchwork suit, visibly unfinished, pushing power dressing into a new terrain. 


Textures were also the star of the season. Jackets with cracked, paint-like surfaces read like sunbaked walls; quilted outerwear adopts an almost reliquary quality, as if couture had been left out in a ruin and found holiness there. The look continues through off-shoulder dresses and strapless bandeau top layered with sheer, distressed fabric paired with a floor-length, A-line skirt. The whole look floats, even as it’s falling apart; it’s ethereal, but at the same time industrial. 


Other memorable looks include an off-white structured jacket with a sculptural shawl collar that wraps around the neck and shoulder. It’s held together by a metallic pin, almost like an armor, creating an asymmetrical silhouette that’s part samurai, part haute couture.


The WDW bride also made an appearance in corseted bodice and sweetheart neckline with a skirt that fractures into lace on one side and layered white-and-gold sheers on the other and the sleeves puff out in gauzy lace, delicate and dramatic, like torn parchment in motion. It’s reverent where it needs to be and relentlessly contemporary where it refuses to be.


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IMAGE SOURCE: WHO DECIDES WAR

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IMAGE SOURCE: WHO DECIDES WAR

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IMAGE SOURCE: WHO DECIDES WAR

Discover the full collection here.


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