BY JAY AQUINO

OCTOBER 3, 2026

Jonathan Simkhai begins Spring 2027 with a black leather T-shirt dress, its white fringe just visible beneath the hem. The designer cited references from the 1970s and 1990s, developing them through coatings, fringing and new construction techniques.

Compared with Spring 2026, this collection has a warmer appearance. Last year’s lace, netting and coastal references suggested a seaside wardrobe with enough polish for the city. The leather, dense fringe and more developed tailoring of Spring 2027 give it a stronger emphasis on event dressing. There are still tanks and jeans, but more of these outfits invite an occasion.

The white and orange-red floral appliqué dresses are the collection’s key pieces. Their raised petals cover short, sleeveless shapes, giving them a sculptural surface without complicating the cut. Both are memorable, with the white version making the spaces between the flowers particularly visible and the orange-red version concentrating their impact through colour. The flared dresses worn over trousers are less successful as their projecting hems crowd the hips, making the separate layers harder to distinguish.

Fringe gives the collection an edgy, sexy character. Red and black-and-white dresses arrange it in rounded tiers around the torso and hips before extending into longer strands around the legs. A black maxi dress takes the treatment almost to the floor, with exposed skin visible between its dense strips. Yellow and white tank dresses balance coverage with exposed skin through diagonal fringed hems that leave one leg more visible.

The lace pieces feature elongated diamond-shaped openings that become denser floral patterns near the hem, while the later white and blue strapless guipure dresses expand into overlapping panels. According to Simkhai, each contains 1.6 million stitches and was engineered without seams, with the artwork incorporated into the garment’s shape. The blue dress shows the result clearly, its botanical pattern following the panels around the legs.

Menswear marks a substantial step forward from Spring 2026, giving Simkhai’s tailoring a clearer identity. Compact jackets sit above long, closely cut trousers. Some trousers look almost too tight, though the narrower line makes a welcome case for more tailored proportions. Black and cream leather ensembles keep the silhouette lean, while red and blue shirts introduce colour beneath dark jackets. Black cuffs extending beyond a white shirt’s sleeves give the layering a sharper finish.

A “jelly” coating adds a reflective surface to a denim jacket and matching jeans, leaving their pockets and seams visible. A blue striped shirt and white high-neck layer complete the combination. Glossy tanks continue the treatment, including a black sleeveless top worn with ivory trousers. The evening looks are stronger still. A short black jacket exposes a pale band at the waist, while an ivory scarf frames black layers worn with light trousers. These combinations show a more distinct Simkhai man, with character built through proportion and small changes in styling.

Pincushion flowers informed the closing womenswear’s shaggy combinations of organza, chiffon and paillettes. Cropped tuxedo-style jackets frame the loose, asymmetrical layers. The final black jacket over ivory fringe and dark trousers works particularly well, its short length allowing the dress and trouser legs to remain visible.

Still, the floral minis are the pieces that stay in mind. They have the same appeal as Fall 2026’s Karlene Feather Mini Dress, whose layered duck feathers, stand collar and flared shape made it a standout. At AUD$2,430, the Karlene feels well priced for its elaborate, couture-like surface. The floral minis carry that same appeal and deserve to sell well. Spring 2027 is a convincing step forward for Simkhai, with sharper menswear giving the tailoring a clearer identity and fringe, lace and sculptural decoration bringing an edgy, sensual character to the womenswear.

Discover Simkhai Spring 2027 collection here.