BY JAY AQUINO

SEPTEMBER 30, 2026

Prabal Gurung opens Spring 2027 with a white strapless dress knotted around the hips, its folds crossing the front before falling into an uneven hem. In the runway imagery, the clothes appear light and relaxed, with loosely gathered fabric giving “Ray of Light” a soft, romantic quality. The repeated strapless shapes suggest a woman who is sensual and self-assured, with a boldness expressed through exposed shoulders and décolletage.

Gurung drew on Nepali women gathering at communal stone water taps, known as dhunge dharas, and a woman dancing at a Brooklyn rave. Speaking backstage, he connected these references through the freedom of women inhabiting their bodies. His dialogue between East and West remains one of the collection’s attractions, with sari-like wrapping finding its way into evening dresses. The connection comes through the clothes’ construction and the way they expose the body.

Ivory and black scoop-neck maxi dresses establish a long, narrow line before colour gives the gathering greater emphasis. Diagonal folds cross a marigold strapless dress, while a lime gown gathers near the knees and extends into a trailing skirt. A lilac floral dress slips from one shoulder and is tied near the ankle, pulling its hem to one side. Its displaced neckline and low knot make it particularly appealing, giving the impression of something loosely arranged around the body. Silk organza linings help some of the draped linen dresses retain their folds.

The sheer pieces develop that visual lightness further. Black and lilac skirts reveal underwear beneath overlapping fabric, with knots at the hips and bandeau tops leaving the midriff exposed. Translucent dresses falling from one shoulder or a high neckline appear similarly airy. The yellow crochet dress introduces a more patterned surface, but the openings between its flowers preserve the collection’s relaxed character.

The rust-orange and gold floral looks move away from that softness, with a cropped jacket featuring a stand collar and long sleeves paired with a matching sarong-style skirt over loose black trousers. An oversized jacket in the same floral palette has rounded sleeves, a gathered hem and broad black satin lapels framing a plunging neckline. Both are beautiful pieces in isolation, but they appear out of place here. Their dense pattern and accumulated layers give this passage a busier appearance, disrupting the romantic feeling established by the dresses.

Spring 2026 appeared stiffer and more maximalist, particularly in its brocades, taffeta and elaborate surface treatments. Spring 2027 looks more relaxed, even when the silhouettes become fuller. The difference is clearest in how the fabric gathers and falls, with exposed shoulders and loosely wrapped skirts leaving more space between the larger shapes.

Feathers provide a welcome continuation between the two spring collections. Here, they also extend the impression of lightness, especially as they trail from the red strapless gown. The evening dresses retain the gathering seen earlier, enlarging it through an orange floral halter gown and a lilac strapless dress bunched around the knees. The returning feathers preserve a connection to the previous spring while complementing the softer direction of the surrounding clothes.

Although Resort 2027 was beautiful, Spring 2027 offers a more compelling reason to wait before buying. For readers choosing between the two, this collection is the stronger recommendation, particularly its knotted and strapless dresses. Their combination of sensuality, boldness and relaxed romance gives Gurung’s woman a convincing presence.

Discover Prabal Gurung Spring 2027 Collection here.