BY JAY AQUINO

JANUARY 25, 2026

Martine Rose's Fall 2026 collection unfolds through bodies that assert their space, silhouettes that thicken the air, and a tactile quality that makes every movement an event. The garments do not merely drape the wearer; they command the stage, their heavy textures and sculptural forms shaping the posture of those who inhabit them.

Trousers, jackets, and accessories mold the wearer into something larger than life, elevating the physical act of wearing to something both confrontational and mesmerizing. The collection carves out a presence that is as deliberate as it is complex. What Rose offers here is a deliberate thickening of her language—more volume, more weight, more insistence—until restraint is no longer an option.

Rose’s work has always thrived in contradiction, mixing flamboyance with formal rigor and a knowing interrogation of masculinity’s excesses. Fall 2026 amplifies this duality, drawing from the opulent weight of Renaissance Europe and the raw swagger of 1990s club culture. Her work continues to explore how British subcultures, gender fluidity, and high fashion intersect; historical and contemporary references do not merely echo past collections—they push against them, rejecting minimalism in favor of maximalism that is deeply personal and culturally literate.

Corsetry, traditionally restrictive, is repurposed as a tool to shape movement rather than constrain it. Bones of garments are hidden beneath layers—subtle to a glance, yet decisive in how bodies bend and extend. Rose’s work interrogates the balance between tension and freedom, enforcing physical presence while allowing the body to respond. The result is a choreography of restraint and expansion: each piece insists on posture, scale, and visibility.

Proportions swell, exaggerate, and demand recognition. Jackets bulge with oversized sleeves reminiscent of Renaissance doublets yet carry contemporary edges—MA-1 bombers, sculpted leather—forcing the wearer to occupy space differently. Trousers elongate, shoes extend, and each silhouette imposes a new form of authority. Tailoring becomes a mechanism of presence, whilst masculinity here is enacted, not suggested—playful yet insistent, expansive yet disciplined.

Denim is reimagined with texture; oversized faux furs drape the knees of trousers, moving with deliberate weight. Fur, once a symbol of luxury, becomes raw, almost primal. Graphic tees clash with pinstripes; leather transitions into hot-pink fluff. Every material is constructed to alter pace, posture, and perception. 

Accessories—plastic-wrapped headgear, disposable caps—punctuate the tension between function and spectacle, between protection and provocation. Casting, styling, and movement collectively frame a social hierarchy: dominance is physical, authority is visual, and every gesture asserts power.

Two gestures define the season. The oversized hot-pink faux-fur jacket paired with voluminous denim trousers, augmented with fur, thickens presence with every step and claims space in every movement. Corset-adorned jackets reshape waistlines without restraint and turn posture itself into performance. Both moments crystallize the collection’s principle that clothing is action and exaggeration commands the body.

Rose addresses those unwilling to compromise, those who refuse fashion’s quiet corners. The collection excludes subtlety and understated gestures, prioritizing maximalist assertion. Punk influences remain as the amplification of raw textures, historical disruption, and humor coalesce to place Rose decisively outside the sanitized contemporary menswear sphere.

Discover Martine Rose Fall/Winter 2026 Collection here.