BY JAY AQUINO

SEPTEMBER 29, 2026

The women in our lives each have their own eye for fashion. One might notice how Advisry turns a denim jacket into a dress, another the feathered colour in Bibhu Mohapatra’s collection or Lela Rose’s embroidery on linen. Those details lead into larger ideas about shape, fabric and the occasions for which someone dresses. Here are five designers whose Spring 2027 collections are worth sharing, each with a different reason to take a closer look.

IMAGE SOURCE: WWD / LELA ROSE

Lela Rose

Lela Rose trained as a painter and sculptor before turning to fashion. Her label now spans clothes for day and occasion, and Spring 2027 shows how she moves a detail between those settings. Embroidered and beaded flowers appear on linen, while cut and frayed chiffon gives a blossom its raised shape. The same treatment reaches a tulle gown and a black mini, changing its effect with each fabric and silhouette. Elsewhere, tiny perforations make lightweight blue and green taffeta resemble needlepoint without adding another layer of embroidery.

The less obvious piece is a navy tailored ensemble with a detachable utility belt. It can shift the outfit’s proportions or disappear entirely. A ribbon of saddle stitching on a blazer sleeve offers a quieter trace of the Western references Rose has explored since moving to Wyoming. Across the 24 looks, she moves from work clothes to party dresses without making every piece answer to the same dress code.

Bibhu Mohapatra

Born in Odisha, India, Bibhu Mohapatra developed an early interest in textiles and handwork before studying fashion in New York. He spent nine years as design director at J. Mendel and established his own label after the house’s Spring 2008 collection. That experience in occasion dressing is evident in Spring 2027, though his declared muse, Marchesa Luisa Casati, the early twentieth-century figure who made her appearance a form of art.

The collection begins in pale pink cady with a feathered hem before moving to a sheer marigold blouse paired with an asymmetric duchesse satin skirt and printed Chantilly lace used across dresses and separates. These fabrics change the effect of relatively simple shapes through transparency, surface and movement. Mohapatra also includes a sweeping denim trench, a shirtdress and loose indigo jeans. They allow the collection’s colour and decoration to enter a wardrobe beyond formal invitations.

Advisry

Keith Herron founded Advisry as a teenager in 2014, beginning with graphic T-shirts before learning to construct clothes. His Spring 2027 collection, America, Still, shows how far that project has travelled. Looking to the political and cultural pressures of 1970s America, he organized his Spring 2027 collection in three acts named Reaction, Dignity, and Transformation. Buckled leather and distressed denim give way to tartan tailoring, then brighter knits and pearl details.

The clearest change happens to a constricting leather piece from the opening, which returns in the final act with more room around the body. A denim jacket turned upside down becomes a dress, changing the function of an everyday garment while leaving its origins recognizable. Herron also repeats the blazer cape in fine bouclé wool, placing it alongside the tartan and sparkling sweaters as a piece that could outlast a single season’s theme.

Sergio Hudson

Sergio Hudson established his womenswear label in 2016 and has made defined waists and precise tailoring central to it. For Spring 2027, he staged a James Bond reversal at New York’s Rainbow Room: the woman was the agent, and the man took the supporting role. The opening look put a sharp-shouldered red blazer over a dress slit high at the leg, with a long scarf trailing behind. Its color catches the eye first, but the shoulders and waist give the outfit its line.

Hudson develops that line through skirt suits, close-fitting dresses in vivid color, and evening looks with softer draping. White shirts paired with draped skirts bring a familiar garment into the same setting. The menswear, including fluid trousers and satin dinner jackets, shares the palette without taking over the premise. A gunmetal gown paired with diamond like necklace close the show, which could be a sign of Hudson’s first move into jewelry.

Fforme

Founded in New York in 2021, Fforme is now designed by Frances Howie, whose earlier work took her from Alber Elbaz’s Lanvin studio to a long tenure at Stella McCartney. Their Spring 2027 collection begins with familiar American sportswear pieces and changes their scale. A pale, papery coat stands away from the shoulders on wide sleeves. Later looks become narrower, with panelled trousers, straight tunic dresses, and dark coats fastened close to the body. A shirt’s deep opening at the back alters an otherwise ordinary shape when seen from another angle.

The lighter pieces complicate that clean line, with sheer netting and open knits revealing layers beneath and fringe moving along hems and trouser legs. A gold lamé slip brings a different kind of movement through reflected light. Wool traditionally used for men’s suiting sits beside light cotton-silk blends, and necklaces assembled from coins or small bottles refer to the work of stylist Judy Blame.