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Auralee Proves Fabric Still Matters

Every collection starts with extensive research into textiles and raw materials, both in Japan and internationally, before any silhouette is finalized.

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BY JAY AQUINO JANUARY 5, 2026


Founded in 2015 by Tokyo designer Ryota Iwai, Auralee was never intended to be a flash in the pan. Iwai studied at the prestigious Bunka Fashion College, the same institution that designers like Kenzo Takada and Yohji Yamamoto went to, and from the beginning, he refused to separate material from design. Every collection, Iwai starts with extensive research into textiles and raw materials, both in Japan and internationally, before any silhouette is finalized.


Auralee's attention to fabric isn’t superficial. They source yarns and fibers from renowned regions — alpaca from Peru, wool from New Zealand and Scotland, and cashmere from Mongolia — often developing them in close collaboration with weavers across Japan, Mongolia, New Zealand, and Australia. These aren’t off-the-shelf materials that you can easily buy; they’re proprietary fabrics created with specific hand, weight, drape, and longevity in mind. 



Auralee's approach to materials has always been innovative. Jonah Weiner of Blackbird Spylane substack said that the brand found success with konjac treatment, where the fabric is coated with a starch derived from the konjac plant. Traditional in Japanese textile making, this treatment gives cotton a linen-like feel—dry, textured, and comfortable even in humidity. Weiner further reported that Auralee uses Finx cotton twill: extra-long-staple Egyptian cotton woven at high density, dyed, washed, and reversed so that the textured face becomes the surface that touches the skin—a unique tactile experience that only comes from deep textile experimentation. 


Critics and advocates alike recognize this quality-centric method. Industry voices like Paris-based stylist Charlotte Collet describe Auralee’s pieces as “amazingly made with sumptuous materials and colors” and note that each season brings new silhouettes, genuinely new fabrics, and textile techniques. Though on Reddit (yes, we check Reddit!), some people find their approach to minimalism to be boring, but even so, some of them did admit that the fabric quality itself is exceptional.




On a personal level, Auralee’s appeal becomes clear the moment you wear the clothes. I spent time with several pieces at Incu to see them up close and experience how they feel on the body. One piece that stood out was the lightweight cashmere V-neck pullover. The hand feel was delicate, and the green tone can easily integrate into any wardrobe.  While the price point is high, it does make sense when you factor in material quality and comfort.


Auralee’s approach also shapes how its clothes age. Many fashion pieces degrade with time; their fabrics are crafted to soften gracefully, develop character, and remain entirely wearable years later. Iwai doesn’t want to make ostentatious fashion; he wants to create lasting staples that grow with the wearer.


Discover Auralee here.


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