BY JAY AQUINO

JUNE 19, 2026

Presented in Florence during Pitti Uomo 110, Sunflower’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection saw the Copenhagen label clarify what it has always done well, building modern clothes around denim, tailoring, leather, knitwear, and everyday pieces. Titled No Soundtrack, the show unfolded like a live performance, with Danish musicians August Rosenbaum and Jakob Littauer improvising the score in real time. 

Founder Ulrik Pedersen’s comparison to a Keith Richards riff is useful because it explains why the collection worked. The clothes were not trying to be complicated. They were trying to be clear, repeatable, and memorable, the way a good wardrobe often is. Sunflower has always understood that making real clothes better is what makes them more desirable.

The collection had the directness of a wardrobe. Its clothes were simple, but not empty. They carried intelligence in the cut, confidence in the styling, and enough attitude to make the familiar feel exciting again. This season, that attitude leaned heavily into the 1990s. Denim jackets, leather blousons, graphic T-shirts, striped long-sleeve tops, and lean tailoring all carried the memory of an era when clothes looked best slightly undone.

At its strongest, the collection felt like a wardrobe for supermodels between jobs: sharp, casual, and lightly cinematic. A full denim look worn under a long black coat captured that idea clearly. The silhouette was elongated and straight, with the coat giving the body authority while the denim kept the look relaxed and urban. It was not nostalgia for its own sake. The styling made the denim feel polished, almost like a uniform for someone who understands the power of looking effortless.

A cropped brown leather jacket worn open with matching trousers gave the collection its clearest 90s charge, reducing the look to silhouette, skin, and attitude while keeping the cut lean, direct, and uncluttered. The warm tone stopped the leather from feeling too glossy or precious, suggesting vintage Calvin Klein, paparazzi-era masculinity, and off-duty model dressing, but filtered through Sunflower’s Scandinavian discipline.

A pale double-breasted suit kept the collection from becoming too casual, showing how Sunflower can make classic menswear feel lighter without losing structure. The jacket carried the precision of traditional tailoring, while the soft neutral palette and open shirt underneath gave it a relaxed summer sensuality.

The more interesting tension came through the silk pieces, where a glossy shirt and silk-like shorts worn with a utilitarian parka interrupted the heavier denim-and-leather language. They softened the collection’s strong 90s core while showing that Sunflower’s wardrobe could move beyond its usual foundations without losing clarity. Through shine, fluidity, and looseness, the look opened a different direction, one that felt more sensual and less nostalgic.

That shift in tone mattered. Cohesion is important, but a collection becomes more compelling when a designer allows a new idea to disturb the system. The silk pieces gave Sunflower room to breathe, proving that its world does not have to stay locked inside its most familiar codes.

Sunflower’s latest collection offered clothes with longevity, pieces designed to look better with wear and to frame modern masculinity as something relaxed, intelligent, and seductive, proving that in Florence, they did not abandon its foundation but sharpened it.

Discover Sunflower's Spring/Summer 2027 here.